Bosworth Guzzler 500 Manual Bilge Pump

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Pressure: 15 PSI Max.Pressure: 15 PSI Max.For Customer Service, please click here Let us know you've found something wrongPlease mark each that apply.Please include your e-mail address below if you would like us to respond to your comments or questions. Not responsible for typographical errors. Any and all products may be withdrawn from sale at any time. Some products featured may be limited quantity. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Our stores are open for your convenience. Please call (800) 262-8464 (800) 262-8464. Guzzler manual pumps have been installed boats for 40 years. Their reliability and serviceability have made these diaphragm pumps a first choice for boaters and boat builders alike. An aluminum handle gives users the enough leverage to deliver 12' of lift and provide 30' of head. The Guzzler 400 and 500 pumps are capable of 10 gpm and 15 gpm respectively. A thru deck version of the 500 model is available in can be flush mounted and includes a removable handle and hinged cover. Service kits are available to maintain and increase the life of these manual pumps. For a trusted manual bilge pump look to the Guzzler 400 and 500 to do the job.West Marine has compiled one of the Web's most comprehensive collections of technical boating information articles. You can change your cookie settings through your browser. To learn more about cookies, please see our Privacy policy. Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Please try again.Please try again.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.Reliable and rugged construction. http://evergreensoma.com/nbloom/fckuploads/boxxer-world-cup-2008-manual.xml

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Made of lightweight Delrin plastic. Sturdy aluminum handle. Clamp ring adjusts to 12 different handle orientations. Available with either horizontal or vertical handle. Optional aluminum clamp ring for added durability. Handle Orientation: horizontal (fixed).Amazon calculates a product’s star ratings based on a machine learned model instead of a raw data average. The model takes into account factors including the age of a rating, whether the ratings are from verified purchasers, and factors that establish reviewer trustworthiness. Please try again.Please try again.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Order service kits, noncollapsing wire-reinforced vinyl hoses, stainless steel hose clamps, and check valves separately in table. Low-cost, high-flow pumping solution Ideal for pumping shear-sensitive or particulate-laden fluids. Durable, portable pumps mount in any position. Available in cast aluminum or nonclogging Delrin acetal plastic. 07090-09 has inlet and outlet on same sideAmazon calculates a product’s star ratings based on a machine learned model instead of a raw data average. The model takes into account factors including the age of a rating, whether the ratings are from verified purchasers, and factors that establish reviewer trustworthiness. Please try again later. Peggy 4.0 out of 5 stars The very good is the personalized customer service at Bosworth. They care about their product. For that reason alone i will buy Bosworth pumps in the future. Sulfate Bath 150 Whether you are a boat builder, a marine products distributor or a mariner who insists on worry-free and dependable bilge pumps and Y-valves, Bosworth is the name of choice.Equipped with horizontal handle for up-and-down pumping action. Equipped with vertical handle for back-and-forth pumping action. Available with black or white trim cover plate. https://www.gloucesterquays.co.uk/images/dynamicImages/boxxer-team-service-manual.xml

Features universal handle for either horizontal (up-and-down) or vertical (back-and-forth) pumping action. Features universal handle for either horizontal (up-and-down) or vertical (back-and-forth) pumping action. Up to 22 feet of lift.Up to 22 feet of lift.Up to 22 feet of lift.Up to 20 feet of pump lift. Up to 20 feet of pump lift. Up to 20 feet of pump lift. Up to 20 feet of pump lift. Up to 20 feet of pump lift. Up to 20 feet of pump lift. Up to 20 feet of pump lift. Send us your product video and we’ll post it on this web page.Under operating conditions in which the pump is generating significant positive or negative pressure (i.e., vacuum), diaphragm life may be shortened. Additionally, the choice of diaphragm material will affect diaphragm lifetime.If your pump is a “400” series pump equipped with flapper valves, a simple trick is to turn each valve around. Click 'STAY LOGGED IN' button to remain active. LOGIN or REGISTER to view your account information. The browser you are currently using is not supported by Fisheries Supply. Unsupported browsers put your security at risk. Please upgrade to a different browser below. Enter valid email. Your Comments Send a copy to my email. Searching for substitutes. If we did't update. Specification Overview The Bosworth Guzzler 400 models are self-priming, and are capable of a 12 ft (22 ft with a check valve installed) suction lift and a 30 ft delivery head.Login or Register to see your preferred pricing. FOLLOW US ON: MAILING INFO: Fisheries Supply Customer Service 1900 N Northlake Way Seattle, WA 98103 TEL (US): 800.426.6930 EMAIL. All rights reserved. Host-Name:410506-FISHERIE. Do not assume any additional items will be included in your shipment.There are times a display is used ONLY to show the item being sold is functional and working properly. In this case these displays ARE NOT included, this will be stated in our descriptions. http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/72861

If you have ANY questions feel free to send a message or call Max Marine Electronics Inc, Pompano Beach, Florida. We always want to be transparent with our customers and fully disclose any information regarding the products we sell. A solution-minded staff, well versed in product functionality, compatibility and repair, is key to your satisfaction. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Help your fellow customer. Use single quotes (') for phrases. Please add this item to your shopping cart to view our price. You have no obligation to purchase the product once you know the price. Simply remove the item from your shopping cart. Please add this item to your shopping cart to view our price. Simply remove the item from your shopping cart. Marine Southco Speco Tech SPOT Spray Nine Sprayway Springfield Marine STA-BIL Sta-Rite Pumps Standard Horizon Stearns StrikeMaster Sudbury Super Lube Surfstow Swobbit T T-H Marine Supplies Taco Marine Tasco Taylor Made Tecnoseal Tekonsha Thermos Thetford Marine Tigress Timex Tip Top Teak Troll Master True Guard Turning Point Propellers U Uflex USA Uniden V VDO VDO Marine Velair Vetus Vexilar Victron Energy Viega Viking Volvo Penta W Wahoo Industries Wave WiFi Weatherhawk Webasto Weld Mount Wesbar Westerbeke Whale Marine Whitecap Wild River Wildgame Innovations Winegard Wow Watersports X Xantrex Xventure Y Yanmar Marine Yukon Z Zarcor Bosworth Guzzler pumps are found on most sailboats. Website design and hosting powered by Websiteforge.com. Cookies. Call us toll free at 800-426-2783 This page requires Javascript. Modify your browser's settings to allow Javascript to execute. See your browser's documentation for specific instructions. Are you sure you want to switch accounts? Portable, lightweight. All Delrin plastic construction. Self-priming. 12 foot delivery suction lift. Horizontal handle orientation. It has started leaking and was wondering what the best replacement would be. https://gitagasht.com/images/bot-2-manual.pdf

The pump is mounted in the deck in such a manner that you regularly step on the faceplate.If it is a large capacity unit it may be well worth repairing. Many of the itty bitty pumps really don't move much water. Another point to consider is how YOU can pump it if you really need it. A long handle that gives a lot of leverage in an easy to operate place will allow you to pump effectively for a long period of time. I've seen manuals mounted in awkward to use positions that after several minutes will poop the operator out and then what. Yes they meet the regulations but not the intent. If you can't operate the thing and possibly for a long time then it is of little use. Take a good look at it. Find the mfr. name if possible and model if possible. Post a photo or several here and someone may recognize it. I think it may be a Guzzler. They offer a kit for several models that have a through the deck mount with a plate that looks similar. Take a look. There may be others but something twigged. The Bosworth Co - Diaphragm Pumps It's a Bosworth. I'd repair it or just replace it with another Bosworth. This link shows the Thru Deck Mounting kit that matches yours. The question is how will the unit be used. If its to slurp up the last bit of water from a well where the electric leaves an inch, most any diaphram pump is great. IF its to keep you afloat pumping can labels, wood chips and other trash from a flooding boat, by far the Edison would be the choice. Lifting water takes far more energy than moving water. Ships will mount the pump very low and discharge into the water below the water line, to increase pump efficiency.A thru deck mounting kit is on the way today. Thanks for the heads up on where I could find this product. The pump is in great shape but the mounting plate is shot.: )Often wondered how long I could realistically pump for manually, or would there not be other things to attend to if we were taking on water!! Seems to me a manual pump is not much use!! http://erkerlaender.de/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/162745222a3610---brother-2700-manual.pdf

Diving to clear an electric pump in the bilge can call for a bit of courage, going down under the cabin sole structure. Electric is great, till the batt dies, then its time for the pail.I decided my time was better spent trying to stop the water from getting in than working a pump. Even a little 500 Rule will probably move close to 3000 pounds of water per hour. I'm sure that would kill me.Maybe, maybe not. Remember the pump mfg measure the pumps ability to move water, with no lifting involved. Thats great IF the pump is in the bilge pushing water out, (like a ship) but not UP as required on most boats. The issue of Practical Sailor with the bilge pump tests might be an eye opener.Most boats with 4 big electric pumps can not overcome a 2 inch hole 2 ft down. An engine driven 2 inch pump would have a hard time too.Are you seriously saying that a scared man with a bucket is the best bilge pump?My point is TRASH is present every time real de watering is required, and the pump must either pump trash, or be really eaasy to clear. A guy with a bucket doesn't have the same problems as a bolted down pump that clogs under a couple of ft of water. The electric jobbies are fine for small leaks, but FLOODING is a whole different problem. And requires different equipment, installed in advance.I was invited to fish a tournament on a 43 foot sport fish. The target species was swordfish. We hooked a very large fish and after it had taken most of the line we were forced to back down on it to recover some line. Large amounts of water came into the cockpit through the freeing ports, a couple of hawse pipes in the transom and over the transom. The owner asked that the engine room be checked for water and there was very little. He asked if the bilge pumps were running and they were. About ten minutes later he asked for it to be checked again and there was about two feet of water over the floor boards. dienlanhhaiphong247.com/upload/files/connect-direct-ndm-manual.pdf

At this point it was thought by some that the water was coming in through the starboard engine and it was shut down. It turned out that the water had entered the boat through the deck hatches that had bad gaskets. The rubber flaps over the freeing ports were bad as well. The freeing ports ended up at or below the waterline and had to be plugged with shirts and life jackets before the water stopped gaining. There was a large fish box recessed into the deck under a hatch. There was no pump in it and it was full with several hundred pounds of water. This is where buckets came into play. The fishbox, about the size of a bath tub, was emptied by two young men with 5 gallon buckets. The fishbox floated as the water came out which told us the compartment below was flooded. It impressed me how fast they could move water. The buckets were handed to two more young men who continued bailing. There were a total of 12 people aboard with about half being young males. I have to admit they were moving as much as the two medium size bilge pumps. I don't know how long they could have kept it up and I know I couldn't have moved much water that way, but four or more young men can move significant amounts of water. The Coast Guard had been called as soon as the water was detected. In about forty minutes we had a cruising sailboat, Sea Tow, a Coast Guard boat and Tow Boat US along side. They arrived in that order. By the time they arrived we had controlled the flooding and the pumps were making very slow progress in dewatering the boat. The owner had Tow Boat US coverage and asked Sea Tow to stand off and we did not want his help. He was pretty pushy insisting it wouldn't cost any more for him to pump us out. The boat owner didn't buy it and as the imediate danger seemed over he decided to wait for Tow Boat US. Their pump drew air when the water was down to about six inches. Our pumps removed the rest. {-Variable.fc_1_url-

The Coasties and both commercial towers stood by while we restarted the engines in case we needed a tow. I learned that buckets are not useless if man power is available. More pumps are better than fewer pumps. Bigger pumps are better than smaller pumps. The pumps were not blocked by floating debris. The few things that were in the bilge either wouldn't have blocked the pumps or they were floating on top of the water. They must have run continously for over two hours. The owner is now considering the purchase of a gasoline powered crash pump. I think if we could have used the engine pumps we would have cancelled the Coast Guard call. The Coast Guard is a first class outfit. The crew was profesional and polite. They refused the beer but took the offered cold water. Oh yeah, once the flooding was controlled, we landed the fish. It was a big Threasher Shark hooked in the tail. He was released but he didn't look good after an hour or more on the line.Mine, a Cummins 210hp, doesn't seem to pump much water. I never checked how much, what would be typical on a trawler engine? 165-250 HP. Maybe you're a DIYer who has built a boat from scratch and you're looking for a great price on a marine bilge pump. Great Lakes Skipper is here to help with marine boat bilge pumps, heavy duty bilge pumps, marine pump float switches, bronze pumps, waste water boat pumps, and 12 volt bilge pumps from Shurflo, Attwood, MP Pumps, Jabsco, Johnson Pump, Mastercraft, and Whale. Shop our site for great discounts from Great Lakes Skipper. Great Lakes Skipper, LLC. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.Ask a rules Question or tell a racing specific story or just plain shoot the breeze about rounding the marks. http://vdgairconditioning.nl/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/16274524a92429---brother-2820-laser-fax-manual.pdf

The price of boat units just went up for you, so brag about your new boat, bounce tech tip ideas off each other, enlighten us with your newest journeys and excursions. Happy Posting! No new posts since the last visit. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site. Throughout the late summer, I would look into the bilge and see a bit of water, and wonder how I should remove it. There were also several tubes and unattached wires (!) leading down into the darkness that lead to unknown devices. I had thought for a while that the wiring may have lead to a depth transducer or some such device. A few week's back, when I decided to siphon out the bilge, the squeeze device proved worthless - it wouldn't maintain a vacuum, and I couldn't squeeze fast enough to start and sustain a flow. I ended up hand bailing, using a plastic cup as a bailer. The water was pretty gross, but the job was completed quickly. I ended up bailing about one small bucket of water from the bilge before the water level dropped to where I could not reach it. All that gross old tubing and pump went into the dumpster, thereby tidying up the space between the fuel tank and the saildrive. A quick trip to the nearby Bass Pro store resulted in the purchase of a small bilge pump and some tubing. I had thoughts of wiring in the electric pump, and using tubing to direct the bilge water over the side of the boat. Inelegant, to be sure, but I had not had much luck finding any info on the existing hand bilge pump. A quick note asking for info on the bilge pumps used in early S2 sailboats garnered several responses, all of which were very informative and useful. I had been so close! If you look closely, you can see two abandoned mud dauber wasp nests from times gone by. To start viewing messages,The two places to look: 1. dienhoanghean.com/upload/ck/files/connect-direct-manuals.pdf

There is a one by something beam that forms the bottom of the motor well running perpendicular to the hull line. The plywood bulkead is attached to the forward edge of the beam. The assembly has a layer of fiberlass over it in the motorwell. However, if the water gets between the panels and the beam at the bottom, it can bypass the fiberblass barrier. As I recall, I think I drilled some holes and filled the gap between the two (going down to the hull) with resin. That seam not seems to be secure (how about that for a pun?) The second was at the top of the bulkhead panel in the corner ( in my case on the port side). I found it not with a flashlight, but with a hose pressed up against where the deck and the bulkhead meet. That was really obtuse and hard to fix, requiring some routing out of the glass to get to the pin hole. I now almost have it, but this past weekend noticed a bit of water trickling in. The answer will largely lie in whether the water comes in with just the motor running (the boat is relatively level but the engine well flooded - in which case the leak is from below - or when the boat is healed, regardless of whether the boat is under power (in which case the problem is at the deck seam. Good luck but fix it. The fix makes a more relaxed sail for you and your friends.I had been on deck for only about a half hour, when I went below to find my shoes floating around in the water that was sloshing around the cabin sole. I later replaced my bilge pump hose, installed an anti-siphon loop and plug etc. etc., but this phenomena occured once again to a lesser extent. With one of my trusty nephews manning the tiller, I crawled down in the seat locker to discover that on a broad reach the considerable water that enters the lazarette through the OB well on a broad reach was sloshing high enough to send about a cup of water squirting through the electrical wire holes in the lazarette bulkhead at each slosh. I was lying below in the cockpit locker watching Old Faithful erupt every time the water in the lazarette locker sloshed. This story is further described in my earlier post on this thread. The opening had been taped, but all of that water was squeezing through nonetheless. I removed the ancient Loran antenna wire on the starboard side, and repaired the bulkhead with epoxy. I used a water tight through-bulkhead fitting on the port side navigation light wires. That stopped the leak.I removed the ancient Loran antenna wire on the starboard side, and repaired the bulkhead with epoxy. That stopped the leak.I will talk to Ariel Spirit's new Captain, and revisit the lazarrette aboard 'Faith' also. Thanks for your help. My system has evolved as I installed it, the first part (above the line) was from June. Bilge pumps After a good storm on the Chesapeake earlier this year, I was reminded of the value of a good bilge pumping system. Of course we know there is no better bilge pump then 'a scared Sailor with a bucket', but I am not a huge fan of that system since it is tough to sail and bail at the same time. The boat I was on had a small (500 GPH) electric pump in the bilge, and a manual pump mounted where it could be operated from the cockpit. The leak was not a big one, but when I discovered it the floor boards were floating, so there was a fair amount of water to get rid of. Issue 1). Electronic switches. The electric pump?s automatic switch was one of the fancy ?solid state? ones. It of course failed. It was the second failure of one of these ?foolproof? solid state switches I have personally delt with. The first was on an Alberg 30 I have been keeping an eye on. For my boat there will be nothing but good old mercury float switches. Issue 2). Redundant redundancy. The smallish electronic bilge pump was not able to remove the water fast enough for my liking. I have a similar sized pump on my boat, and it works fine for normal underway splashes that wind up in the bilge, but it was out of it?s league. Even if it were larger, the manual switch had taken it out of the running. It also eventually clogged while clearing the bilge (you just have to turn it off, and the backflow of water mostly clears it). The manual bilge pump, a Bosworth Guzzler, (400 I think) had nearly cleared the bilge when the flapper valve either failed or was jammed with debris. The ?thirsty mate? slide type pump then had to be used to finish clearing the bilge.The Guzzler is a good pump, but like anything else it can (and will) fail when you need it. I was glad that the thirsty mate pump worked, since it would be hard to get a bucket into the narrow bilge access. The plan for my boat was to be set up like this one had been. I have now decided add another pump (triple redundancy, quadruple if you count the thirsty mate pump). I will keep my 1000 GPH pump at a higher place in the bilge to take over if the first pump becomes clogged, overwhelmed or fails. I have already purchased a ?plastimo 925? manual pump that I will mount in the cockpit. If you have an inboard, you might look at using the cooling pump as an extra means of removing water. Consider this carefully though, as running your motor dry, or sucking debris into the cooling system might complicate your situation. Issue 3). Bilge hygiene. Both of the pump failures I experienced were the result of trash in the bilge. I hose my bilge out regularly on ?Faith? but it is easier to keep clean since it is well glassed and accessible. Issue 4). Awareness. Of course this would not have been as pressing a problem if I had known earlier that the bilge was filling. This boat had a high bilge water alarm, but it failed. I plan to wire an extra float switch to the ?test? button of a smoke detector, to notify me if the water rises. The smoke alarm will still function, so it will do double duty. It should also be loud enough that if it went on while the boat was at the dock and I was not present, someone might hear it and know something was wrong. It would also work to keep the bilge access open if you are in bad wx, but that might present a hazard to crew going below. I know this is a long post, but floating floor boards are enough to ruin your whole day. My First mate did great through the storm, the waves and wind did not seem to phase her, even the lightning did not bother her all that much. Looking below and seeing all that water was a bit much, and I will admit it is something I would rather not repeat myself. First is an Atwood Sahara 750 GPH pump. It is mounted at the lowest point of the bilge with an internal float switch. Second, I looked at a bunch of pumps for a larger capacity back up. Ended up with a Rule 'Gold' 2000 GPH pump. It was pricey, but I liked the way it was built. It is mounted just aft of the Atwood, and slightly higher. These two pumps running together should go for something like 10 hours on my current battery. I would more realistically expect something less then that but plan to double the capacity of the battery bank next spring. Then there is the Plastimo 925 manual pump that I will mount in the cockpit. It is rated at 60 GPH, but I guess that has more to do with how fast I pump it.So here goes just to push it along summore. These are taken from my notes as I do not have my bilge pump system installed. I apologize for any repititions. Electrics: Good connections. Use Ancor adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors. Have another piece of shrink wrap on the wire and after the above has cooled shrink that one over it all. Best wire. Use ONLY insulated duplex tinned multi-strand wire that is sized for voltage drop based on how long the run is (remember, it's TWICE as long) and the pump amp draw. Set the system up for auto with manual overide. Wire bilge pumps directly to battery so that when you hit the battery selector switch when leaving the boat no matter what it says on the switch the boat is still protected. Include a hidden total kill switch so pumps won't cycle when the boat is out of the water. Constant cycling can be a battery drain fiasco. This is addressed on the whole system agenda. Trickle-charger? Don't over-stress the pumps. Use recommended size hose. Keep the head as short as is safe. Reduce length of hose to the loop. Off the shelf loop vents can clog and cause siphoning. Check valves restrict pumping capacity and are frowned on by nearly everybody including insurors. Make sure exit is as high above the waterline as possible and is protected with a seacock. Use 100 316 hose clamps. Sandvic? Source all leaks coming into the boat. Put the smaller pump in the low position. It will take care of incidental water and is cheaper to replace. Mount it high enough so it won't continuously cycle because of hose water run back. Put the high capacity pump switch higher in the keel-sump so that it is used only in emergencys. Helps save an expensive pump. Use UNCOVERED Rule super switches so that you can lift them out of the sump to SEE if they are working. Use the manual pump to lower the water level in the sump. Planning to take the boat offshore creates a way more intense level of leak protection. Some things requiring upgrading have been talked about on the forum. Make sure that what you might have to depend on is actually working. Checklist. Investigate mounting the pumps to King-starboard or other plastic to make it easily removable so sump can be cleaned if necessary and pumps replaced or cleaned. Float and super switches same thing. To keep them in place in a crowded keel-sump. 338's sump may have to have non-submersible pumps. Flex-impeller (non-submersible pumps) will burn up if run dry, have good head but way less capacity. Research how long a 'submersible' can be run out of water, ie, with a short hose into the bilge??? Attwood pumps DO NOT USE TINNED WIRE in their connecting wires. Carry whole pumps as spares. Submersible pumps are 'throwaways'. Most have a one year warranty. Seasonal maintenance could include replacing the bilge pump with a new one. Nor can you depend on the largest electric Rule to keep up with a gusher like that. Have access to all parts of the hull. Carry a sailcloth hole-diaper as well.Have another piece of shrink wrap on the wire and after the above has cooled shrink that one over it all. I then solder the crimped part of the connection, and heat shrink over the soldered end. This seals the end of the wire and the end of the crimp where the ends of the wires would normally be exposed is sealed with solder. I wired my old MG this way, and never had another electrical problem.Wire bilge pumps directly to battery so that when you hit the battery selector switch when leaving the boat no matter what it says on the switch the boat is still protected.The 2000GPH pump is hardwired through the mercury switch. It does not share the same fuse as the other pump. THe need for redundant wiring was made apparent just this afternoon. An Alberg 30 that is in my marina, that I watch of an out of town friend was noticed to be sitting low in the stern.. she had had her floor boards floating once before when.I had pumped her out and rigged a temporary spare float switch. When the owner came down, I recommended he consider a second pump, mounted higher then the other. He mounted a rule 1500, on it's own float switch slightly higer then the smaller pump. I was surprised today to look below and find the floor boards floating again. I checked the power, it was on. I checked the battery status, it was good. I then reached for the power cable for the lower pump. When I pulled on it to raise the pump, the pump started to run.